The water was glassy calm as SCHERZO slid off her trailer into a muddy low tide in Porpoise Bay at the head of Sechelt Inlet on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, an 85-mile stretch of mainland northwest of Vancouver. With Howe Sound to the southeast, Desolation Sound to the northwest, Georgia Strait to the west, and the rugged Coast Range mountains to the north and east, the Sunshine Coast is essentially an island. It is bisected by Sechelt Inlet, a narrow body of water that extends 18 1⁄2 nautical miles south from Jervis Inlet to Porpoise Bay and the town of Sechelt, on the traditional and ancestral lands of the Sechelt (shíshálh) First Nation. At its widest point the inlet is just over 1 nautical mile across, more than 900′ deep, and framed by richly forested mountains rising to 4,000′ on either side. Just south of the inlet’s mouth are the Skookumchuck Narrows, and south of the narrows are the Sechelt Rapids, locally referred to as the Skookumchuck (“strong water” in the Chinook trade language) or, simply, the Chuck. Four times a day, 200-billion gallons of water pour through the Chuck reaching speeds of 17 knots, making it one of the fastest tidal rapids in the world. The rapids, 16 nautical miles to the north of us, were to be the first destination in our four-day trip.

Alex Johnson

Porpoise Bay is a busy seaplane hub. We launched near one of the floats but were careful to avoid the designated take-off and landing area when we left the harbor.

SCHERZO is a 14′ by 6′ Pacific power dory. I built her in my back yard in Santa Cruz, California, between 2010 and 2015. Her flat-bottomed plywood hull, sheathed in two layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy, is built to the Seneca design by the late Jeff Spira. I designed her interior around a 14″-diameter wooden ship’s wheel that I found in an antique shop on Long Island, New York. She is outfitted for day cruising with a helm-seat cooler, an Anchor Buddy and 100′ bow line for beaching, waterproof USB charging ports for an iPad, a waterproof caddy for paper charts, nav lights in case we stay out too late, and 15 gallons of gasoline—good for about 15 hours of cruising. Powered by a 20-hp Yamaha outboard, with three adults sitting amidships, she cruises at an easy 10 knots at 5,200 rpm.

Read this article now for Free!

Ready for a second free article? Create a free account by entering your email address and a password below.

— OR —

Subscribe now for $29.99 a year and have immediate access to all of our content, including hundreds of small-boat profiles, gear reviews and techniques, adventure stories, and more! You can also browse our entire archive of back issues starting from September 2014, as well as post unlimited classified ads. This is an extraordinary value!