A summer of sailing seemed like the perfect solution to a global pandemic. What better quarantine than a few weeks alone outdoors, aboard an open boat designed for long-distance cruising? As classrooms emptied overnight and the school year ground to a halt online, I established a nightly ritual of studying charts after the last papers were graded: Georgian Bay, Lake of the Woods, Lake Nipigon, the Pukwaska. In early May, my wife helped me wrestle the boat upside-down atop its trailer for a partial refit. Three coats of paint, inside and out; a few sessions of oiling thwarts, spars, and gunwales; a length of brass half-oval screwed to the stem to protect the forefoot; a new becket block for the downhaul—these small chores offered a welcome diversion to rising case counts, mortality rates, and other grim portents of the looming disaster.By mid-June I was more than ready, but closed borders had thrown a wrench in the gears before I could even get started. There’d be no trip to the Canadian side of the Great Lakes this summer—no trips to the Canadian side of anything. Even travel within the U.S. seemed like a dubious proposition. Like Huck Finn, I wanted to “light out for the Territory,” at least for a while, but I couldn’t even make it out of my own backyard. I was thoroughly landlocked. .
Roger Siebert
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Tom, My thanks, from Scotland, for a welcome break from these very odd times. Charlie
Always enjoy your adventures and writing, Tom. Hopefully, you can get back to Canadian waters next year as I, being Canadian, always think – somewhat delusional – I could do that.
Nice to read about your adventures again.Too bad about the Canadian lockout. My boat spent the summer in the water but was limited to Minnesota side of Lake of the Woods so a lot of rough open water.Nice scenery on your trip.
This has been my first time reading one of Mr. Pamperin’s articles, and I am very impressed. Jealous would be a better word, I think. Perhaps in a previous piece he has mentioned what boat this is. The photo captions indicate it is an Alaska, but an Alaska what, and built by who? It certainly looks like a sweet craft and I have a need to know….
Thanks for taking us along!
Kees,
thanks for the kind words. The Alaska was designed by Don Kurylko; you can find plans and information about his designs here.
As for building my Alaska, it was pretty much a 50/50 effort between me and my brother, I’d say.
Proof, if any was needed, that you don’t need an ocean to find adventure with a small boat. Thanks, Tom!
Thanks for the comments, everyone. Even without my usual long trip to Canada, I did manage quite a few shorter local(ish) outings in Wisconsin this past summer. This might have been the best of them!
And Tim, that’s a LOT of open water and no friendly islands on the Minnesota side of Lake of the Woods—must have made for some interesting moments!
Tom,
Thanks so much for sharing. This now landlocked ex-skipper sure enjoyed your journey. My wife and I travelled along the Minnesota side of that stretch of river on our way from Pittsburgh to White Bear Lake, MN. I could relate to your description of the terrain as you well described.
Thanks again,
Jim Fischer
PS.
That sure was Divine Intervention with saving that boy’s life!
Great story Tom, well brought to life with the right mix of prose, video, and pictures. The lifesaving event – sheer providence.
Love your work.
Yours, aye,
Sid
Jim and Sid,
Thanks for the kind words. Yep, I was really happy I had decided to sail those two miles up to Lake City that morning. As it turned out, that decision worked out very well indeed!
Tom
Your description of the Upper Mississippi River powerboats was spot on and made me laugh out loud. I had similar encounters when I passed through in a rowboat in 2018. It was great news to hear you were there to help that boy. Well done.
David,
I remember your pieces well! If I remember right, you also camped at Hok Si La on your way down Lake Pepin, right? You covered a LOT more miles than I did.
Anyone interested in reading about a longer river trip? Here it is:
David Hudson’s “Downriver—Part 1” and “Downriver—Part 2”
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for the tale. I had a similar experience to what you describe with the drowning kid. Thanks for saving a life, I know it can stick with you in some unexpected ways. Good man.
Also, I loved the Jagular book – what became of the old boat?
Hey, Brooks, thanks for the comment. I’m glad you enjoyed my book.
JAGULAR is currently resting on some foam blocks in my shed, a little weathered but still pretty much ready to sail–I’m hoping to deliver him to a nephew this summer so he can get himself into some trouble and maybe learn something along the way. We’ll see how that goes… 🙂
Tom
Hi Tom,
Great story! As a fellow Wisconsinite, I always look forward to hearing of your adventures that aren’t traditionally coasted. I’m likely heading back to the North Channel this summer. In lieu of that (in case Canada closes again), do you have any suggestions for local adventures? I did Voyageurs last year and have done the Turtle Flambeau in the past. I’m thinking about Door County and possibly connecting that to the Garden Peninsula in da UP. That, however, might be too exposed. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks, Fred
Fred,
As far as local(ish) adventures, I don’t think the Turtle-Flambeau can be beat for camp cruising with lots of islands. Similar, but smaller, is the Willow Flowage a bit south and east of there. If you liked the Turtle-Flambeau, the Willow is just as nice. I’ve never taken a small boat around Door County—a bit more developed/civilized than what I’m usually looking for. And so, never followed on up to the Garden Peninsula either. Another good mini-destination might be Grand Island, in Munising. You do have to wait for your weather—the west and north shore can be terribly exposed, and have long stretches of cliffs. But if you can make it around, the northern beaches are stunning. But, you really need a boat you can fully beach, because if a N wind comes up while you’re there, there will be a looooong fetch to deal with, and breaking surf.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thoroughly enjoyed your account and those excellent pics. I have shared your video link with a few friends to give them a better idea of what row-n-sail is about. Last but not least, I was very very moved by that amazing experience you had with that drowning boy. Thanks for sharing.
Ed
A well-written story that transports me from my morning chair in Coos Bay, Oregon.
Thank you,
Don Costello
As an old magazine editor before becoming a professional mariner, I have to make one important correction to your otherwise good story. Wisconsin is NOT SURROUNDED on three sides by water. It is BORDERED on three sides. For something to be surrounded all four sides must be included. Otherwise you end up with something like, “OK, Lefty,” the sheriff hollered through the bullhorn, “we’ve got the building surrounded on three sides. There’s no way for you to escape…”
Good catch–“bordered” it is! (But somehow I’m glad Lefty has an escape route).
Tom