I set out, boat in tow, well before dawn to get from my home in New Hampshire to Rockland, Maine. John, coming from Vermont, had started his drive even earlier. We needed to be on the water by 10 in the morning to make the crossing of Lower Penobscot Bay and get to the narrow entrance of The Basin on Vinalhaven at slack tide. The forecast looked promising for the 10-nautical-mile crossing. With a wind out of the south at 12 knots, we could make good speed on a broad reach out of Rockland Harbor and across lower Penobscot Bay, a stretch of water that is known for foul weather and steep seas. This was the first challenge to overcome on our trip, which was to be a circumnavigation of North Haven Island, Vinalhaven’s northern sister and the smaller of the two Fox Islands. A few years prior, I had circled Vinalhaven from Rockland with my Sea Pearl and wanted to explore more of the area. John, after hearing about that first trip, was eager to do something like it with me. .
Roger Siebert
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The one picture reminds me of my grandfather’s admonition – “There are three things you should never carry on a pleasure boat: a step stool, an umbrella, and a naval officer.”
That’s good. I have to remember that! But, that means I can no longer sail with my two sons.
R
Are they step stools?
Well played, Andrew –
Great story! I have sailed midcoast Maine many times and find North Haven and Vinalhaven among the best. Hurricane Sound certainly lives up to its reputation as one of the best cruising grounds in Maine. Merchants Row, Swans Island, and others are also wonderful. A week to 10-day cruise around the area will just touch on what the archipelago has to offer. Hope to see you there sometime.
Christophe,
Many thanks for this! The trips you and John take are so much in the spirit of my own sailing. I sure hope we get to cross paths on the water at some point, so you can show me something about these “tides” I hear so much about…
Nice article, it really put me in the cockpit with you both. Cheers,
Tom
Wish we had a “thumbs up” we could click on these comments
Tom, this reminded me of your articles on sailing the North Channel, which are so well written!
One of the most beautiful photos we have ever seen! Nice report, thank you for sharing.
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
The sunset photo of WAXWING is an absolute treasure. Thanks for sharing it with us.
The Sunset and the photo at the top with the tides shadows on the rocks and what appears to be fog above, but could just be the header for the column?
Since I’m hoping to build an Ilur, I’ve had to keep a tissue near to deal with the drool.
Love John’s full-battoned lug sail
R
I now have an Ilur! hope to get an invite some day up there!
Highly enjoyable account of your trip. It’s one I’d like to to someday. Which ramp did you use in Rockland?
David,
I have to, regrettably, correct John, who answered below. We launched from the Snow Marine Park just south of town.
Be ready for the crossing to the Havens, which can be long and unpredictable. Once you make it to the islands there are lots of hiding holes to ride out bad weather. Looping either island or more has much to offer and the place becomes a world unto itself. When we pointed our bows back to the fuzzy mainland on the horizon I was reminded we were out-to-sea. I had this feeling on both trips, it makes the weekend warrior in me feel accomplished!
Thank you so much. An amazing adventure and fantastic photographs.
David, we launched and took out from the public ramp at Harbor Park, on the south side of Crockett Point.
Great photos! Thanks for sharing.
Great trip! Sail-and-oar cruising with another boat or two is one of the best things that life has to offer.
I thought I was the only one to carry an umbrella, used for just the same purposes as John does. I have settled on carrying a golf umbrella. Made of composites, it doesn’t rust in the salt air, the vents keep it from being blown about quite so much and, being larger than a regular umbrella, you have more shade. In addition, if you go for a walk in the rain ashore, it keeps you drier that just your foulies. In an open boat, any time you have a chance to stay dry, it makes for a much more comfortable night once you have your boat tent set up.
Alex,
Umbrellas are definitely a thing with our cruising group as well. Check out the Swans Island trip in Small Boats, October 2020 for more sporty umbrella use.
I carry a trekking umbrella on my boats and use it regularly for much of the same reasons you specified. It keeps paying for itself at least every other trip. Nothing dries at night wallowing around at sea level. Staying dry is a priority for me, and as you mentioned, immeasurably increases comfort of camping aboard.
Ah, yes. I had read that article but had forgotten the picture of the umbrella deployed as an underway bimini.
Putting my Maine Island Trail Monitor Skipper hat on, this basically follows my regular beat. For those who want to go ashore or camp ashore there are plenty of islands, MITA islands, and some that are under the purview of the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, and with the barrier of a longish open water run over from Rockland, not real crowded. Christophe didn’t mention it, but you can stop in North Haven for ice cream. Right in the heart of lobster grounds which can be bought from a boat if you brought a pot. The Basin is magic with something like 90% of the land surrounding it in conservation; if your timing doesn’t work you can camp on Ram as well as sleep in boats.
I missed joining Christophe and John on this trip in RANTAN, my oar-and-sail boat; just have to do it another time.
Thanks for an amazing article and great photos. I’m inspired 🙂
I’m finishing a refit and overhaul on a 17′ traditional, riveted Whitehall. I have a sprit rig set up, and a good set of oars, and looking forward to a few Pacific Northwest adventures this summer.
I noticed the hull “props” on both of your boats in the photo of the two boats beached on Butter Island. I’ve never seen those. Can you tell me more about them? Brilliant idea, and I’m not sure how I’ve missed learning about these.
Both Christophe and John equipped their boats with beaching legs to allow their round-bottom bots to sit upright when aground between tides. Our article, “Beaching Legs,” in the November 2014 issue will provide you with some guidance on making a set for your Whitehall. In the article there are photos of beaching legs I made for my traditionally built Whitehall.
—Ed.
Christophe, great article. How would you compare your Sea Pearl to the Caledonia Yawl ?
Thanks
Donald,
If you head over at my “Swan’s Island” article in October 2020 I answer a very similar question asked by Caleb as to how the Caledonia compared to the Sea Pearl and the Ilur. In short I find that the Sea Pearl, in my opinion and experience, is the better sailing boat. It handles better and also points a bit higher, but this may not be a totally fair comparison as I have an underperforming centerboard in the Caledonia. The Caledonia Yawl is much drier, and with much more internal volume, is more comfortable for camping aboard over long periods. I also appreciate how the Caledonia will only capsize while the Sea Pearl will turtle if knocked down. Both boat speeds are commensurate. Also, not sailing related but still important, both tow about the same, though the Caledonia needs side-view mirror extenders if towing with a compact car.
John, any chance that chair of yours is still being made? Love how it fits and I’m wondering if you ever sailed sitting in it with the tiller over your shoulder? Can you direct me to where I might be lucky to find one? It is perfect for the ILUR.
Thanks
John Hartmann identified the chair as a Pangean Lounger from Byer of Maine. The company has it currently listed as sold out. John noted: “I haven’t sailed whilst seated in it, finding that in mild enough conditions for that kind of sailing, seated directly on the cockpit sole with a cushion for my bum, leaning back against the aft bench, with feet up on the opposite bench top is the way to go.”
UPDATE 6/15/21: Byer and Amazon now have the chair in stock, priced at $49.—Ed.
What a great read Christophe, describing the Maine adventure you and John had. Makes me a bit “Maine-sick” as I read it here in the Pacific Northwest. But I will try to have similar adventures in my small boats among the San Juans.
Fair winds