Comments on: Yankee Tender

By: Jim M

Jim M — Wed, 03 Aug 2022 22:50:23 +0000

I purchased these plans because I liked the lines and clean woodwork. I build model boats and am wanting to get away from store-bought kits and build directly from plans. This boat is a perfect fit for me to do that. Im thinking a 1:12 scale model in my future.

By: Stephen Cook

Stephen Cook — Tue, 02 Aug 2022 23:07:04 +0000

I am interested in building this boat. Some practical questions: roughy how much does it cost to build and equip? I have a small wood working shop that has a double door exit and wonder how much the opening needs to be to remove it?

By: Peter Welsby

Peter Welsby — Tue, 02 Aug 2022 10:39:53 +0000

I’m currently building a Yankee Tender and am planning on using the technique described in the article for the bottom. How much bedding compound and linseed oil should I expect to need?

By: Gregory Vangundy

Gregory Vangundy — Wed, 15 Jul 2020 20:17:57 +0000

Late to this conversation. I built a Yankee tender about 30 years ago now using white oak with red cedar planking. My only deviation from the original plans was that I didn’t like the seating plan and went with a stern seat, rowing bench, and bow seat. She has served us well to get out to our mooring and just pleasant rowing. She rows and tracks very well but is a bit “tender.”
Having done the double cross planking with light canvas in between using lots of polysulfide. I would not do that bottom again. It was dry for at least ten years but when it started leaking there is no fixing that complicated stepped joint. At that point I had to pull the whole bottom off including the keel structure. I replaced this with 1/2″ plywood, first routing a small groove into which I set up essentially a polysulfide gasket and then bedded the entire thing in polysulfide using silicone-bronze screws (hate removing those ring nails!). This fix remains tight after nearly 20 years. This year, my son had to prep and launch her (I’ve been waiting for this day). It looks like the keel may need replacing next year. There is also some softening of the bottom at bow and stern. I attribute this to the fact that the boat sits on a dock with those ends exposed due to the extreme rocker of the bottom. She has served us well.

By: James Vibert

James Vibert — Sat, 21 Mar 2020 22:25:21 +0000

This design is truly eye candy at its best. We are considering building one at the shop to replace our Nutshell on the pond behind our buildings. Ours will be an ultralight version for ease of manhandling at the dock. As always, a very good article from Small Boats Magazine.

By: Richard Peterson

Richard Peterson — Sat, 18 Jan 2020 01:47:29 +0000

My plan to seal end grain anywhere it occurs involves liberal application of unthickened epoxy.

By: Walter Baron

Walter Baron — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 00:39:08 +0000

Hi. I built an original Asa Thompson skiff for a client many years ago; it was one of the best short, flat-bottom skiffs I have rowed. I used marine ply for the bottom, 3/8″ I think, and 1/4″ for the garboards. Sheathed this unit with epoxy and cloth, then used cedar for the top 2 lapstrake planks. Cherry transom, oak framing and rails—looked pretty good. The second owner brought it to the Wellfleet Rowing Rendezvous a couple of years ago, still rowed and looked great.

By: TOM DEVRIES

TOM DEVRIES — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 16:15:09 +0000

I beg pardon of Harry Bryan for my erroneous “t”. I suspect there’s a watery association with Wooden Boat’s Associate Editor Anne Bryant in my mind as my thoughts drift Down East. Mr. Bryan’s double planking method is described in WoodenBoat 126.

By: Andre deBardelaben

Andre deBardelaben — Mon, 06 Jan 2020 21:40:16 +0000

I’ve liked this boat from the first time I saw it decades ago. It’s simple without being plain. Being more into shapes than woodworking, if I were building a similar craft, I would probably substitute plywood for all the solid wood planking. Then I’d cover the hull with epoxy-saturated fiberglass. I would definitely try to preserve most of its curves, especially in profile. The builder did a fine job of it but, if it were mine, I’d be a little too afraid to treat it like a simple flat-bottomed skiff. It’s nice to to see this design again.

By: TOM DEVRIES

TOM DEVRIES — Fri, 03 Jan 2020 14:29:00 +0000

In reply to Richard Peterson.

Though the double-layer bottom is no doubt more time-consuming and probably costlier than plywood, I enjoy the pace and scale of the “old-fashioned” way. I also like the look of the oil finished cedar in the bottom of my boat.

Another option I considered for the Yankee Tender bottom was the method Harry Bryant uses on his dory skiff Daisy. He uses 3/8″ cedar cross-planked for the inner bottom and epoxies an outer layer fore and aft—in effect a 2-ply cedar plywood. The glue-up would work best with two people and I’m generally alone in my shop.

I’m curious how you treated the end grain of the plywood at the stern, as the bottom overhangs the transom?