Comments on: Fastening Floorboards

By: Paul Bladyka

Paul Bladyka — Sun, 16 Jun 2024 12:27:56 +0000

McMaster Carr also sells what they call "sidewalk bolts". They have a large diameter, low profile slotted head. I haven't used them in a boat yet, but I find them handy to have around the shop for other projects.

By: William Ranseen

William Ranseen — Thu, 21 Mar 2024 04:14:03 +0000

A couple of suggestions: Use flat or oval head screws with countersunk washers (McMaster has these). Lee Valley sells countersunk washers that are actually counterbored into the substrate, so they don’t protrude. Both help resist splitting. Both seem like they’d be somewhat easier underfoot.

By: Jeff Bryant

Jeff Bryant — Wed, 20 Mar 2024 14:37:20 +0000

I recently used brass threaded inserts, along with flat-head, slotted silicon-bronze machine screws to secure the new cockpit sole on my vintage runabout restoration. Concerned with the possibility of standing water, like Mr. Thompson recommended, I used a through-hole pilot for the inserts. I was reasonably satisfied with the profile of silicon bronze finish washers to spread the load of the machine screws. Not two weeks later, I saw Fair Wind Fasteners offers Silicon Bronze Flush Countersunk Washers. They look very nice and would have allowed a completely flush installation. Maybe next time. The good news is I have taken up portions of the sole multiple times, as I finish out the restoration; the removal and reinstallation is a breeze with this technique.

By: Rick Thompson

Rick Thompson — Tue, 05 Mar 2024 15:35:59 +0000

To create machine screw threads in wood I have used the brass inserts, but if the boat is in saltwater the same type is available in stainless steel which should last longer. McMaster-Carr, of course, carries many types of threaded inserts, these are in 18-8. It is best to avoid blind holes which trap water. Make through holes or drill limber holes from the side if possible. If the back side of the mounting is accessible, I like to use stainless round-base weld nuts epoxied in. These are like tiny T-nuts, but without the prongs which do not work so well in hard woods. They have very high pull-out strength. I painted the back of the flanges a copper color and used these in 8-32 to back up machine-screw snaps for a dodger and tent:

By: Ben Fuller

Ben Fuller — Tue, 05 Mar 2024 00:06:37 +0000

Over the very long haul, anything into the ribs or floors weakens them. I like my floorboards to be able to be removable which is more work. The inserts are kind of a compromise, makes it possible to pull them for maintenance but still weakens ribs and floors.

By: Paul Bladyka

Paul Bladyka — Sat, 02 Mar 2024 13:27:24 +0000

I’m just starting into a kayak build, but as I look ahead, I think I might try these inserts. I will probably use sidewalk bolts, as I like their large area and low profile. They are available in 18-8 SS.

By: Ian Hendrie

Ian Hendrie — Fri, 01 Mar 2024 21:16:18 +0000

I find a magnet is the fastest way to tell if steel is under that nice brass coating. Quality stainless steel is also not magnetic.

By: Steve Brookman

Steve Brookman — Fri, 01 Mar 2024 20:44:16 +0000

Nice helpful article and great photos showing how. This could come in handy if we decide we want floorboards on the Wyman 13s, which is sort of a design-as-you-go project.

By: RON BUTTERFIELD

RON BUTTERFIELD — Fri, 01 Mar 2024 20:17:07 +0000

If you don’t mind adding the step of countersinking, McMaster-Carr carries flat head brass screws. Currently $14 for 25 1″ 1/4-20.

The countersinking allows the screw heads to be completely flush with the flooring.