At the conclusion of a complex build, the energy, ingenuity, and budget for an elegant floorboard installation is sometimes lacking. In a traditional dinghy it is not unusual, for example, to see floorboards fastened directly to the hull’s steam-bent ribs. My traditionally constructed Hvalsoe 13, 15, and 16s are cedar-planked lapstrake hulls with 3/8″ by 3/4″ oak ribs bent from gunwale to gunwale across the apron.
Photographs by the author except as noted
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Floor flats as the Delaware boat builders called them, I love them. This was the style going back to at least the Civil War used on duckers, railbird boats, tuckups and hikers. The floor flat on my 40-plus daggerboard-equipped ducker comes out in one piece, running up on either side of the daggerboard trunk. I have cleats on top at the ends and a few amidships to secure the gunning box from which you row. The after cleat acts like a low stretcher. Those cleats on the top hold the flat together with no ribs on the bottom. Two padeyes fastened to blocks on the keel keep the flat in line. While the floor flat has been repainted a few times, the interior of the ducker has never been: it’s looking a bit faded, maybe I’ll get to it this year.
Did the same thing with my Tony Dias designed Harrier row/sail boat. It has a pair of flats on either side of the dagger board trunk, and a third aft. We left a frame bay open amidships to make bailing easy, and I’ve incorporated adjustable heel high stretchers into the forward floor boards, while the after one holds down the floorboard. In this case there are ribs underneath the flats like Eric describes.
Eric notes that he’s seen a few boats damaged by the installation and removal of fixed floor boards. Having intimate acquaintance with many museum boat collections, I’ve seen more than a few.
It’s a little extra work making them but in the long run you will be well rewarded.
My 1964 vintage GP14 uses a similar system. Of the 7 floor boards, 5 are secured to the ribs with screws, the two closest to the centreboard trunk are held down with toggles that slot up through the board and then turn to secure them into place. I wish I had seen this article three years ago when I restored my “Geep,” I would have used this method.
Just when I was coming to the point of designing floorboards for the dinghy I’m building, I come upon this article. Timing is everything! Thank you Eric for sorting out my brain while I was struggling to come up with something useful and simple. Now I can finish my build and get it in the water. Thank you so much!
This has a nice clean technique. Will use on my future Rob-Roy build I’m planning.
Thanks for sharing,
Tom